Saturday, July 28, 2012

May 2011


 
First of all, I miss you.  It has been over 1 year now since I left the united states, which has me in a nostalgic place.  It´s crazy to think how quickly time flies, how much I have or have not accomplished.  It´s hard to keep track of all this, to be honest.  The concepts of time and accomplishment are very relative things which I have not yet learned to measure accurately.
 
In short, all marches well here.  I am working and growing and experiencing all of the pains and pleasures that come with each.  It´s a constant rollercoaster ride, this peace corps life, but I am loving it just the same.  To be honest  I struggle most when I leave and then come back again--it´s hard to readjust.  The modern world has some strange affect on me, and when I re-settle at home I always pass a few days dazed and confused and jetlagged.  After a few rough mornings I sink back into the comfort of village life, complete with green mangos, nonstop social interaction, dirt from my head to my toes that never seems to wash away, a million giggling children that never grow bored of me, and all is great until my next interruption. 
 
Instead of telling you about all the work and the water and the scenery and whatever else I usually tell you about, this letter, I´m going to tell you a story... it´s not a happy story, so don´t get your hopes up.  it´s a true story though and i´d like to share it with you. hope you enjoy.
 
 
Maria de la Cruz.
 
A new day and little Yeli is waiting for me outside the door again.  It´s 6:30 in the morning on a school day.  I can hear her water tanks clinking, though she doesn´t say a word.  It doesnt matter how many times I tell her to just go check to see if there is water in the faucet and if there is to go ahead and fill up with asking-- she still waits silently outside my door.  Most days there is no water, but she comes anyway, and in the event that there is, she fills the tanks and then waits for Maria de la Cruz to come haul the tanks up the hill on her head. 
 
Maria de la Cruz is her mother, and she is also my neighbor.  On Tuesday two of her 9 children showed up on my patio with a slice of papaya and that look they always give me when they really came to ask for something but are too shy to just say it.  I ask Yeli what she wants and she tells me it´s her mom´s birthday, and could she please use my colored pencils and some paper to make a card.  Of course I give her a big sheet of red construction paper and I cut it in the form of a big heart for her, and she goes to work.  Maria de la Cruz is 42 years old and has 7 grandchildren.  Her children and grandchildren are at my house almost daily, which at times can be inconvenient but I don´t have the heart to send them home.  I know what home means for them.  For one thing, everyone in the community knows that Isaiah beats Maria de la Cruz.  Yelizabeth tells me about the times when he has hit her with liquor bottles, leaving enormous egg-sized welts on her body.  One night, Yeli says casually as she washes her baby sister in a bucket on my front porch, they both grabbed machetes and threatened to kill each other, so Yeli took the baby out to play by the mango tree.  I tell her she did the right thing, and that it´s not okay that her dad hits her mom, and then I continue washing my clothes, but my mind wanders and my heart sinks. 
 
Crucita, the older sister arrives and stands over me, her belly swollen although her breasts are still not fully formed.  She is 15 years old and pregnant with her second child.  I don´t want to make hasty assumptions but I cannot help but to speculate as to how Crucita first became pregnant at the age of 13 in a culture where young women are not allowed to go out with men alone.  I don´t want to make hasty assumptions but I find it odd that Crucita lives unmarried in the neighboring community of Las Playitas with her sister rather than at home.  Could it be the father again? I dont want to speculate anymore.  I continue washing clothes.  Maybe if I scrub harder these terrible thoughts, too, will wash away.
 
I´d like to think that I could talk to Maria de la Cruz about all this.  In the US I could tell her that she has the right and power to report this, that there are agencies and people who can help her.  But here, metido in the campo of Panama, I know that we are too far in the thick of it for anyone to save her.  And she knows it.  Here without cell phone service, with a road that is only passable for certain months of the year, what agency would possibly be able to help?  And what would become of the 16 children who depend on her for food and shelter and safety?  And what would become of her extended family that stays behind to deal with the fury of Isaiah?  And what would become of me, the neighbor who enticed her to escape?  It´s not only a bad idea, it´s an impossible one. 
 
All I can think to do is fill the water tanks for Yeli and carry them up the hill when I have time, let her and the rest of her siblings stay late at my house to read stories (especially on the nights when Isaiah is drunk), and give them left over vegetables to take home when I leave town.  It pains me to know I cannot fix this family, nor can I make their lives any safer, but there´s something to be said for being a good neighbor, so I do my best.
 
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